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Brand new book!
To Piece or not to Piece-Piecing with Color by Irena Bluhm
This book is now available for shipping!
This 156 page book is packed with 50 patterns, design layouts, step-by-step about mixed techniques, coloring instructions, color illustrations of artwork and contributors' quilts pictures.
My missing/lost Quilt:
Full Bloom Extravaganza 87" X 98"
Last seen at HMQS 2008
from May 8th-10th 2008
I have no record of return shipping.
This quilt is a 9 awards winner. It is a whole cloth with raw edge applique and painted surface.
Faux trapunto has been used to create raised design effect.
Quilt First, add Color later
After the quilting is complete:
After your quilt is stitched complete, you must soak it in water for at least 10-30 minutes. Dry it flat or hanging [it doesn't matter], but you need to make the quilt flat before you start coloring. You can use a fabric steamer [not an iron with steam, unless you don’t use any pressure, just the steam] to steam your quilt flat. After steaming your quilt flat, leave it until it is completely dry [no pressing with iron].
Now your quilt is ready for color application. Apply color using colored pencils, or any dry medium you prefer. After the cloring is complete apply textile medium over the colored areas using a flat nylon brush to set the color. Work on one design motif at a time and fix it with textile medium as you go.
Over the years I have been using few different brands of textile medium.
1. Jo Sonja's-the most liquid and the most translucent one of all three products that I have been using. Because it is so liquid, it can not be used just by itself on a quilt with very thin polyester batting, for instance. It will seep through to the back. I have learned that lesson the hard way.
2. Delta Ceramcoat-less liquid, versatile and user friendly. It is a little more opaque than Jo Sonja’s. Works well on thicker polyester batting because of the [liquid soap like] consistency.
3. Versatex Fixer-the thickest, most user friendly, can be used on any batting and very densely quilted areas. It is the most opaque, has soft hand and does not require heat setting. Versatex Fixer’s consistency is close to toothpaste. One of the reasons for adding the Versatex Fixer to any mixture is to eliminate the heat setting.
a very good quality textile medium. Information about textile mediums:
Delta Ceramcoat and Jo Sonja’s textile mediums require heat setting. You can use hair dryer and or just follow the directions on each of the two products.
Over time I have learned that the best of all about this technique is the flexibility.
Listen to this:
1. You can use each of the 3 products individually.
2. Neither one of the three brands, including Versatex Fixer, can be diluted with water. 3. Use each one of them straight from the bottle.
4. You can mix any two products together. Each one of them is water based and not harmful.
5. You can add Versatex Fixer to Delta Ceramcoat or to Jo Sonja's to eliminate the heat setting, and or to just thicken them up if you feel like you need to.
6. You can mix all 3 of them. The formula is in the book “Quilts of a Different Color”, page 27.
7. You can use Jo Sonja's or Delta Ceramcoat to dilute the Versatex Fixer, if it seems to be too dry for application.
8. You can use Versatex Fixer to thicken either the Jo Sonja’s or Delta Ceramcoat textile medium.
9. The only thing that you can't do without getting in trouble is: using water to dilute any of the above listed products.
10. Just to make sure everything goes great, I would recommend using at least one layer of 100% bleached cotton or 80/20, bleached batting, any thickness is fine. High loft, or at least 8oz Polyester batting works fine with Delta Ceramcoat, if applied carefully.
11. There is no need to drench the colored areas with textile medium. All you need is to make sure that the treated area is covered and wet.
Keep in mind that 100% cotton batting does absorb any excess moisture best, much more than any other batting product available.
I have used double batting in most of my show quilts ever since I have learned my lessons the hard way. Now I am using bleached cotton batting on the bottom and Polyester on the top for the raised design effect.
When you fold the fabric and press on the folds using an iron as you need to, you don't touch the fabric with the blue marker, until you have all folds pressed.
Once you have all folds pressed, you unfold the fabric and use the pressed lines as a guide to draw your registration/reference lines using the blue marking pen.
After you have the lines drawn using the blue marker, you don't touch the fabric with iron as you don't want to heat set the blue lines onto your quilt top. They would be much harder to remove.
The blue lines disappear in cold water within few minutes. Spraying the quilt sandwich with water removes them temporarily. Blue stains will appear sooner or later coming out from the batting, as soon as you get a lot of humidity in the air.
There are no restrictions on how many times any of my digital, PDF format, or printed patterns can be used. All of my patterns in any shape or form can be enlarged, reduced, altered, printed and used according to your needs.
No permission is needed for the use of any of my patterns, designs, or techniques used to create any quilts for show entries, exhibits, gifts, donations, customer's quilts, or quilts and other items created for sale.
You don't need my permission, or certificate to teach any techniques you have learned from me through my books, magazine articles, workbooks, DVD's, taking my classes, workshops, watching my demos and presentations on the quilting networks available to you.
Just using a very common sense, the explanation for the attitude about my own copyrights is very simple: I don't want to waste any time worrying about my copyrights being violated. Therefore, I decided not to waste a penny on the protection of my copyrights either.
I just trust my customers' common sense, and judgement. That's simply all it takes, and it works for me.